When Adriano Manen Campusano was a child, he remembers going out to el campo – the countryside – to pick lima beans and sugarcane from the fields around his hometown of Villa Altagracia in the Dominican Republic. He was then asked to get milk from the family cows and vanilla, cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg from the market. This was all in preparation for his mother’s famous habas con dulce– a stewed bean dessert traditionally prepared for Good Friday.
At 83-years of age he’s still making this dessert, even though he long-ago left the town and his home country. While the tradition of this recipe continues in the Campusano family, the dessert is almost forgotten in the Dominican Republic. Food historians say it’s disappearing; partly because it’s associated with lower income people and seen as a dish of the past.
But reporter Katherine Hernandez is determined to learn how to make habas con dulce from her grandfather Adriano, so that she can keep this Good Friday tradition alive for years to come. Katherine told her family’s story on PRI’s The World.
Katherine developed this story as part of her food journalism fellowship at Feet in 2 Worlds. The fellowship is supported by The Culinary Trust, whose mission is to give culinary professionals the tools and opportunities to understand and act on critical issues in the world of food, and the International Association of Culinary Professionals. Together, Feet in 2 Worlds and The Culinary Trust help emerging voices tell important food stories from immigrant communities.
Fi2W is supported by the David and Katherine Moore Family Foundation, the Ralph E. Odgen Foundation, the J.M. Kaplan Fund, an anonymous donor and readers like you.